The Italians, a versatile lot, made the best use of the produce that was close at hand. Combine this with creativity and entrepreneurial flair, it wasn't long before the Italians were serving the delights of dairy ice cream to the working classes of Garnethill, Paisley and the Grassmarket. In the beginning this was served direct from the barrows with shouts of "Gelati, ecco un poco". Consequently they became known as the 'Hokey Pokey' boys.

With an increase in popularity came the need for the business to grow, and it wasn't long before they expanded into cafes, with full meals, confectionary and cigarettes added to the menu. Soon they began to spring up all over Scotland.

It is reported in Police records that by 1904, the number of cafes in Glasgow alone had doubled from the previous year. This grew to 336 ice cream shops the following year. It was at this time that Italian immigration began to stabilise at a population of around 5000.

As disposable incomes grew,  the Scots developed a taste for sweets and desserts like the Knickerbocker Glory's coupled with the late night opening hours that the cafes provided. The image on the right is of Mr. Togneri of the legendary Tog's Cafe in Troon - surrounded by novelties for kids of all ages! (Photograph courtesy of The Herald).

Despite gaining the sympathy of the Temperance Movement in the early 1900's  on account that the cafes did not sell alcohol, many viewed the establishments as evil and morally unjust.

In fact, in a Glasgow Herald article of the time (entitled 'Ice Cream Hells') the comments of a Mr D. Drummond, strengthen this view. He describes these establishments as perfect iniquities of hell itself and ten times worse than any of the evils of the public-house. They were sapping the morals of the youth of Scotland. See full article.

The cafe though did seem to break down many of the social barriers of the day. It wasn't long before the cafe soon became the focal point, whether as an alternative to the pub (especially for the younger crowd) or the evening's finale - after all, a night out just wouldn't be the same without a bag of chips for the road home. Unlike their English counterparts, the cafes also traded on Sunday's.

The above photographs reflect the changes through the years. This is the West End Cafe in Saltcoats owned by the Cavani family. The photograph on the left shows the Cafe in 1939 and on the right fifty years later, and as you can see the changes were actually very few. Another popular institution which has survived the ages is the infamous Ritz Cafe in Millport on the Isle of Cumbrae. (Photographs courtesy of The Herald).

During WWII, many of the chip shops were left in the hands of the wives of interned Italian immigrants, indeed many Scots-Italian males who were born here were also imprisoned! Their better half's proved more than capable, especially given the fact that Fish and Chips were not rationed by Churchill and that it formed the staple diet of the armed forces. It could be said that Fish and Chips help win this country two World Wars !!!

During the 50's and 60's the humble Fish and Chip shop and Corner Cafe may also have been where true love blossomed!

Today most of Scotland's Italian restaurants have developed an impeccable reputation for quality and tradition, with many coming under the umbrella of  Ciao Italia. Founded in 1982 this was an organisation responsible for maintaining and building on the values of Italian cuisine abroad. Gianni Donfrancesco, who was (before retiring), a well known Edinburgh restaurateur (and father of children's author Linda Strachan) is currently President of Ciao Italia.

As tastes change and cultural boundaries are pushed farther, today's cafes offers the discerning diner espresso, cappuccino, filled ciabatte, fresh pizza and tiramisu. Incidentally, if you want to try an authentic Italian coffee online then click here*. Rest assured though somewhere on the menu dairy ice cream is bound to feature.

La Sagra Del Pesce e Patate

Codfathers home from home  

The Tuscan town of Barga celebrates its strong ties with Scotland with La Sagra Del Pesce e Patate - The Fish 'n Chip Festival which is held every August and has been for over 20 years. 

First concocted by ex-pats to raise money for the local sports club the Sagra tales place at the Jonny Moscardini Football Stadium. Apt you might think since Jonny himself was born in Falkirk of fish frying parents. Tons of Fish and Chips are washed down with gallons of red wine over the two week extravaganza.

Photos courtesy of www.barganews.com (you can even hear an mp3 of fish frying on this site!)

The following exert is taken from an Independent Article:

"In the kitchens several old boys are working hard over the oil, demonstrating a perfect sense of timing and haste: this despite Barga being a Cittaslow, the honorific of the Slow Food Movement. "Here's a perfect example of the fryer's art," says Biagi. "There are no dials or thermostats, just as there weren't any in the cellar shops of old Glasgow. I remember people saying, 'He's a good fryer', meaning that he had control over the oil." The trick is to know when the sound changes: the "note", as Biagi puts it. And it was a vital skill."

Another festival which occurs late September celebrates the Scottish connection - La Settimana Scozzese - the Scottish Week. In fact a billboard at the town's entrance lays claim to be 'The most Scottish Place in Italy".

Cafe Corner

Here are some old photographs of Cafe's, Fish 'n Chip shops and Ice Cream Parlours from the turn of last century, many of which are alas now a distant memory....

(Click to enlarge)

Castelvecchi Moorings Dance (Largs pre- 1930)	Corrieri Ideal Cafe (Irvine 1928)
Candellini/Serafini (Inverness 1910)	Corrieri St. George (Paisley 1920)
Cosimini (Kirkintilloch circa 1918)	Casci Il Bottegone (Glasgow 1919)
Renucci Bakery (Glasgow circa 1880)	Marchi Cosy Cafe (Glasgow circa 1930)

(Photo's - courtesy of: Barga, paese come tanti)

Unfortunately the quality of the reproduction is not great but you'll be able to see more detail when the thumbnail is enlarged.

Many thanks to John Rowan, one of our readers for sending in the photo on the left which features the Verrecchia family run Princess Cafe in the Gorbals, Glasgow. The Verrecchia family hailed from Lagone Filignano and ran the Princess along with the Kiosk Cafe and Bedford Cafe from 1920's until the early Fifties.(click to enlarge)

Caffe Gonnella comes courtesy of one of our readers and contributors, Rafaello Gonnella 

You might find Jenny Colgan's article Chips with Everything interesting reading. In it the author passionately defends Scotland cuisine and discusses the relative merits of Square Sausage and (Ice Cream) Oysters.

(This article appeared on the 20th of August 2003 in the Guardian and was sent to me courtesy of Russell.) 

And on a final note....

'As a barometer of changing social attitudes (in Scotland) cafes, fish and chip shops and take-aways deserve to be explored more fully. The slow acceptance of new foods and the changing approaches to public eating reveal deeper revisions of moral and social codes that, in turn, illuminate the history of any society.'

Francis McKee